In 2012, we completed our sixteenth cruise of Cuba with a focus on the Western portion of the island (both north and south coasts). This enabled us to gather the details needed to complete Volume 1 of Cruising Cuba.
With each visit we see changes and 2012 was no exception. Some changes are working toward the betterment of the Cuban people while other changes may not pan out so well. Cubans are now free to travel within their own country however the cost of transportation for most remains high. On the positive side, any Cuban who has a car is permitted to drive it as a private taxi. Consequently, the roads are filled with more classics (1940’s and 50’s GM’s, Ford’s, Chrysler’s) than ever. The operators of these classic cars accept fares in Pesos Nacional making it much cheaper to get around. The ratio is 24 Pesos (MN) to 1 Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC). It is now possible to get into Old Havana from Marina Hemingway for 30 MN. If you don’t have pesos they will accept the equivalent in CUCs ($1.25CUC). This is about a tenth of the cost from a year ago. Note: In 2013, 1 CUC was equal to $0.95 Canadian and $0.85 USD.
For a tourist and probably the locals, the dual currency definitely makes life more difficult. The problem becomes who accepts what currency, where to get it and will they have any. No country can operate for long with a dual currency system. The exchange rate for foreign currency definitely favours the Canadian dollar. At the moment, it pays to load up with Canadian cash (or Euros and Sterling) before heading to Cuba as one loose too much when exchanging US dollars.
The restoration of Habana Vieja (Old Havana) and the Malecon continues to progress. More of the old, narrow streets have been blocked to vehicle traffic. The shops along these pedestrian-only streets were well-stocked and some even have window displays of expensive, high-end European apparel! Shopping by Habaneros was unprecedented.
Many new “Paladars” (private restaurants) have opened creating competition which has resulted in better food and service. For the penny-saving boater it is now possible to eat at a peso paladar on a back street and have a good meal for 25-35 pesos (roughly $1.50 CUC). In Old Havana you will only find CUC paladars and the price ranges greatly…expect to pay $4.00-40.00 CUC for a meal (drinks not included). Shop around as the same meal could be available for half the price in the paladar across the street.
The biggest change, however, was the apparent easing in U.S.—Cuban relations. What we noticed were large numbers of U.S. tourists in Havana, Pinar del Rio province and Trinidad on the south coast. American tourists are now able to fly to Cuba under the Dept. of the Office of Foreign Assets Control (OFAC) “people to people” general license. This educational exchange provision does not, however, apply to individual tourists travelling to Cuba by boat!
For years, the annual number of tourists to Cuba stood at roughly 2 million. The new OFAC provision is expected to cause this number to surge by 1 million in 2014. Cuba’s answer to the problem is to add 10,000 new hotel rooms through 2016 and, in response to the high demand for accommodation created by U.S. tour companies, they will be raising hotel and other tourist service rates by 25 percent. Compared to other Latin American cities, Havana’s already expensive hotels will be grossly overpriced.
As well as Havana, the tourist towns of Viñales in Pinar del Rio and Trinidad are already sold out for the next season and beyond and there is no evidence that new hotels are being planned for these tourist hotspot. Without new infrastructure, the only way for Cuba to regulate the influx of tourists may be to introduce a visa system and/or limit airplane landing rights.
For the time being, everything seems focused on land travellers. The only exception is the new marina at the eastern tip of the Hicacos Peninsula at Varadero. This project has progressed over the past few years and is set to open in 2015. At this time, no other marina projects are underway and even the marina rebuild at Tárara has stopped.
As for existing marinas, some have become quite run-down and services cut. This is particularly true of Marina Hemingway. There is no longer water or power available at canal number one so they are offering a 30% reduction to those docked in that canal. The swimming pool at the customs dock is now closed so there is no pool available to boaters (the pool at Hotel Acuario will cost $20 CUC/person/day. The biggest negative change, however, is the increased restrictions on where boaters can cruise. Today, all the pocket bays on the north coast are closed to yachts and throughout the country it is only possible to go ashore at designated ports where there is a marina or tourist facility. It is still possible to anchor in remote areas where there are no settlements. The few designated stops are: Puerto Vita, Cayo Coco, Marina Darsena in Varadero, Marina Hemingway, Cayo Levisa, Marina Cabo San Antonio, Cayo Largo, Cienfuegos, and Santiago.
Fuel was still available at Marina Hemingway, Marina Cabo San Antonio and Cayo Largo Marina. In 2013, the price was $1.20 CUC/Litre. Minor boat repairs can still be arranged at Marina Hemingway and the large, haul and storage yard at the new Gaviota Marina in Varadero is, for the most part, operational. The Sepsa security guards are gone from Marina Hemingway and a new system is in place with much fewer on-site guards so it is recommended that vessels be locked when owners are not aboard. Security is still very good at Marina Darsena in Varadero.
The fruits and vegetable markets are stocked in Havana but far less produce is available in out-lying areas especially on the south coast.
For now, the reefs remain in good shape but lionfish (an aggressive predator) have moved into Cuban waters—a bad sign for the future of small reef fishes. Lionfish were also seen in the canals at Marina Hemingway.
The number of yacht visitations this year remains the same…low. The predominant cruisers were from France, then Canada and Germany. Other European countries were also represented as well as a few U.S. flagged yachts. We will report on their experience with US customs as we get information from them.
